Ivy (Hedera helix) is a beloved climbing plant that adorns many gardens with its twining shoots and beautiful, evergreen leaves. It is popular for its hardiness and versatility – ivy thrives in places where many other plants give up, and it requires comparatively little care. With ivy, you can easily create greenery all year round, whether it is against a house wall, along a fence, as ground cover under trees or in a pot on the balcony. Here you will find a pedagogical guide that explains how you plant, care for and succeed with ivy outdoors, so that even you as a beginner can enjoy this lush plant. We go through everything from planting and the right growing position to watering, pruning, troubleshooting and creative tips for your garden.
When and how should you plant ivy?
Planting time: The best time to plant ivy outdoors is in spring when the risk of frost is over. That way, the plant has time to establish itself during the summer. You can also plant in early autumn in mild climates – the plant then takes root before the winter cold arrives. Avoid planting in the middle of summer during extreme heatwaves or during periods of drought, because ivy’s roots need even moisture to get started. In principle, ivy can be planted as long as the ground is workable (not frozen) and there is no severe drought.
Planting preparations: Start by watering the ivy plant thoroughly in its pot before planting it out, so that the root ball is well moistened. Then choose a spot (more on position and soil below) and dig a hole roughly as deep as the height of the pot and slightly wider. Loosen the soil at the bottom of the hole and preferably mix in a little compost or planting soil for extra nutrients and better soil structure. Ivy appreciates humus-rich soil, so improving the soil at planting gives the plant a head start.
How to plant: Carefully remove the ivy from its pot (press lightly on the sides of the pot if the roots are stuck). Place the plant in the hole at the same depth as it stood in the pot – do not plant too deep; the top of the root ball should end up level with the surrounding soil. Fill in with the excavated soil around the root ball. Firm the soil down lightly with your hands or foot so that the plant stands steadily and gets good contact with the soil without large air pockets. Finish by watering generously straight after planting, so that the soil settles and encloses the roots properly.
Spacing and support: If you plant several ivies as ground cover or a hedge, space the plants about 30–50 cm apart. They will soon grow together into a continuous green mat or wall. Ivy climbs by itself with small clinging roots that attach to the surface. If you want to cover a fence or a trellis, you can weave the young shoots into the fence/trellis after planting to give them a helping hand. When planting next to a wall or a masonry surface, you can tilt the plant slightly towards the support – ivy’s shoots seek upwards and will start climbing as soon as they get a grip. If the wall has a smooth surface, it can be a good idea to put up a simple net or wires as support until the ivy has established itself.
Planting in a pot: Ivy is excellent for growing in a pot or balcony planter. Choose a roomy pot with drainage holes in the bottom. Put a layer of clay pebbles or coarse gravel in the bottom for drainage and fill with a nutrient-rich potting compost. Plant the ivy as above, water the soil through and preferably place a small trellis or support in the pot that the ivy can climb on. On the balcony, the shoots can also hang decoratively over the edge. Bear in mind that soil in pots dries out faster than in the ground, so keep an eye on watering (more on that below).
Patience at the beginning: Ivy can be a little slow to get going straight after planting. It is not uncommon for growth to be slow in the first season while the plant focuses on establishing its roots. Do not be discouraged if it does not shoot up immediately. Once the ivy has rooted properly, it usually rewards you by picking up speed – after a couple of years it can grow surprisingly fast and cover large areas with its greenery. So be patient, give it a little care at the start and look forward to it “exploding” in vigour later on.
The right position and soil conditions
Light conditions: Ivy thrives best in partial shade to shade. In fact, the shadier the spot, the better the ordinary green-leaved ivy tends to do. It can cope with some sun, especially morning or evening sun, but intense direct sunlight in the middle of the day can damage the leaves. Especially during hot summer days, strong sun can cause the leaves to dry out or get sunburnt. If you grow ivy in a very sunny position, make sure the soil is kept moist (sun stress + dry soil is a bad combination). There are variegated varieties with white or yellow that actually need a bit more light to keep their colour pattern – but even these prefer to avoid scorching sun. A good rule of thumb is: dark green leaves = thrives well in shade, lighter or variegated leaves = slightly higher light requirement (but still not full sun).
Soil: When it comes to soil, ivy thrives in a nutrient-rich, humus-rich and moisture-retentive soil. It likes soils that contain plenty of organic material (humus) because they both hold on to a suitable amount of moisture and provide nutrients. At the same time, the soil needs to be well-drained – ivy does not want to stand with its roots in constant wetness. A slightly moist but well-aerated soil is ideal. If your garden soil is heavy and clayey, improve drainage by mixing in sand or grit as well as compost. If the soil is very sandy and poor, extra compost or planting soil works wonders to increase the humus content. Ivy is comparatively undemanding when it comes to pH and can grow in both slightly acidic and slightly calcareous soil. In fact, it rather likes a bit of lime, so you do not need to worry if the soil is alkaline – otherwise add a little garden lime if your soil is very acidic. A moist, lime-rich soil with good humus content is close to optimal for ivy.
Placement tips: If possible, choose a spot that is sheltered from strong wind. Ivy itself does not mind wind much physically (it holds on), but strong and dry wind can dry out the soil and leaves faster, especially on an exposed balcony or if the plant is in a pot. Under a tree canopy, on the north side of a house, or in an east/west position with shade for part of the day are often excellent sites. Avoid the very sunniest south-facing position without shade if you are not prepared for extra watering and that the foliage may become sparser there. Ivy can also be planted at the base of larger trees and climb up the trunk in the shade of the crown, giving the tree a green frame – just make sure it is a tree that can tolerate the company (ivy can become heavy over time, so for young or weak trees it can become a burden if you do not limit the ivy).
Climate and hardiness
Hardiness: Ivy is an evergreen plant that copes with cold surprisingly well. Common ivy (Hedera helix) in Sweden is hardy up to roughly plant hardiness zone 3, which covers large parts of Götaland and Svealand. With some caution and the right cultivar, it can also be grown in zone 4. There are extra hardy cultivars, such as ivy ‘Woerner’, which tolerate colder sites (up to zone 4) better. In the mildest parts of the country (zone 1), ivy grows most luxuriantly and can become truly large and old. In the southern and western coastal areas of the country, as well as on Gotland and Öland, you can even see ivy growing wild here and there. The milder the climate, the more vigorous and faster ivy generally grows.
Ivy in colder climates: If you live north of the Mälaren area or in regions corresponding to zone 4 and above, overwintering outdoors can be a challenge for ivy. That does not mean it is impossible, but you should expect it may die back in severe winters. In such climates it can be wise to grow ivy in a pot so you can move it to a more sheltered place over winter (for example a glazed conservatory, garage or cellar that stays a couple of degrees above freezing). Alternatively, you can overwinter the pot outdoors by protecting it: place the pot close to a house wall, wrap it in insulating material (jute, bubble wrap or similar) and cover the soil with dry leaves or spruce branches for extra insulation. In the ground, you can protect the root area by laying a layer of leaves, straw or bark mulch around the base before hard cold arrives – this acts as a protective blanket for the roots.
Evergreen characteristic: Because ivy keeps its leaves all year, it can lose some moisture on sunny winter days, despite frozen ground. A tip to prevent the leaves drying out or being “burnt” by winter sun is to water thoroughly late in autumn before frost arrives, so the plant goes into winter with well-filled “water reserves”. During milder spells in late winter or early spring (for example a thaw day in February), you can take the opportunity to water the ivy if the soil is dry. This helps the leaves withstand the strong spring sun which can otherwise cause ugly brown patches if the ground is frozen and the roots cannot take up new water. If the ivy’s leaves still get winter damage, do not worry – prune away any completely withered parts in spring, and new healthy growth will quickly replace what has been damaged.
Watering and feeding
Watering: Ivy wants evenly moist soil, especially during the establishment phase. Straight after planting and during the first growing season, regular watering is essential. Keep the soil slightly moist – water as soon as the top layer starts to dry, but make sure excess water can drain away. If the plant is in the ground with good soil, nature usually takes care of some watering, but during longer dry spells in summer you may need to water your ivy so it does not dry out completely. In a pot, you need to water more often than in the ground; on sunny and windy days, daily checks may be necessary. Feel the soil with your finger – if it is dry a couple of centimetres down, it is time to water. When you water, give a thorough soak rather than small splashes, so the entire root ball becomes moist. Avoid, however, letting ivy stand in constant wetness; waterlogged roots can lead to lack of oxygen and root rot. Balance is key: slightly moist but not wet soil is ideal. Signs that ivy is thirsty can be leaves beginning to droop, curl, or develop brown edges – then it is time for water.
Established ivy plants that have grown for a few years are fairly tolerant of some drought. The thick, leathery leaves reduce evaporation, and the roots (which spread over large areas) can find moisture deeper down. Still, the plant does best if you give it a drink during prolonged dry and hot weather, so it stays really green and lush. An extra bonus of watering ivy’s leaves (for example with a hose or shower nozzle) is that you rinse off dust and any pests – a shower now and then keeps the leaves glossy and fresh.
Feeding: Ivy is not an extremely nutrient-demanding plant, but it responds positively to a little supplement during the growing season. If you planted in good soil outdoors, it usually manages without extra feeding the first year. After that, in spring you can give a dose of all-purpose garden fertiliser or well-rotted farmyard manure around the base to stimulate new growth. Alternatively, work in a little compost or well-rotted manure into the soil around the ivy each spring – this provides both nutrients and improves soil structure. During summer, if you want to maximise growth, you can add liquid feed to the watering once a month (follow the dosage on the packaging; ivy only needs a weak dose). Stop feeding towards late summer so new shoots have time to mature before frost arrives.
Ivy in a pot needs more regular feeding because it grows in a limited amount of soil where nutrients are easily depleted. There, it works well to add liquid houseplant feed about every two to three weeks during spring and summer. You can also mix slow-release fertiliser granules into the potting compost in spring, which gradually release nutrients. Do not forget that pot-grown ivy also benefits from fresh soil at intervals – repot or top up with fresh compost annually in spring to replace exhausted soil. A nutrient deficiency in ivy often shows as leaves becoming paler or growth stalling. Then a feed in the watering can give the plant new momentum.
Pruning and controlling spread
Pruning as needed: One of the nice things about ivy is that it does not require much pruning. It grows and thrives without you having to cut it back every year. But because ivy can become both vigorous and wide, it can still be wise to prune it now and then to keep it under control and in the shape you want. If you leave it completely alone, it can over the years take over large areas, climb high up trees or spread far beyond the place you intended. Therefore, regular shaping is a good way both to limit its spread and to encourage denser growth.
When and how to cut: The best time to prune ivy is in spring, preferably early spring (March–April) when the worst frosty nights are over but before it produces lots of new shoots. Then you can cut away winter-damaged or bare shoots and make room for fresh new growth. However, ivy tolerates pruning all year round, so if it has become overgrown you can trim it without problems even during summer. Avoid cutting right before or during severe winter cold, because freshly cut shoots can freeze more easily. Use sharp secateurs or hedge shears depending on how thick the stems are. Cut back as much as you need – ivy is hardy and readily produces new shoots from most “stubs”. If the plant, for example, starts finding its way under roof tiles, into window frames or other places you do not want it, cut these stems off at the base. For ground-cover ivy creeping outside the intended area, you can simply cut the runners along the edge with a sharp spade or shears.
Tip for a denser plant: If you want your ivy to become extra dense and bushy, you can pinch out the shoots regularly. Every time you cut a stem, the plant will branch and send out two or more new shoots from just below the cut. By pruning lightly (for example pinching the tips of the longest shoots) in spring and late summer, you stimulate branching and get a fuller ivy that covers better. This can be desirable if you use ivy as ground cover – then you want a dense mat – or if you want an evenly distributed green wall on a trellis.
Managing spread: Ivy spreads naturally both through its trailing shoots and because the shoots can root where they touch the ground. That means that if it is grown as ground cover it will gradually conquer more and more ground, and if it climbs it can reach further and further. To control the spread, you need to physically limit how far you allow it to go. Cut off or remove shoots that appear in unwanted places. Ivy stems lying against the ground can be lifted and cut off, and make sure you pull up any roots they may have formed if you do not want it to continue there. This plant roots easily on its own, so it is good to stay alert if you only want it within a certain area.
Cuttings and more plants: A positive side effect of pruning is that you can get more ivy for free. If you cut off stems that have already developed roots against the ground, these pieces can be replanted directly in a new spot. Even stems without roots can be used as cuttings – place 10–15 cm long tips of healthy shoots in water or moist soil, and roots will form within a few weeks. In this way you can propagate your ivy and fill the garden or balcony with even more greenery (perfect if you want to cover a larger area and do not want to buy lots of new plants).
Climbing in the right places: When it comes to ivy as a climbing plant, you should plan a little where you allow it to climb. It attaches itself as mentioned to surfaces on its own, and over time develops small but strong clinging roots that can work their way into cracks and grip very firmly. On rough surfaces such as tree trunks, brick, concrete walls or wooden fences, this is usually not a problem. But on house facades with rendered walls or painted timber walls, ivy’s roots can cause damage or leave ugly marks when it is removed. Think ahead: if you want ivy against the house, consider putting up a climbing support a little away from the wall. That way you protect the facade while still getting a green covering (and an air gap in between which is good for the building). If the ivy still climbs where it should not, make sure to remove it relatively soon – the longer it sits, the harder it grips the surface.
Common problems and how to prevent them
Overgrowth and invasiveness: A “problem” you may encounter with ivy is really a consequence of its success – it can grow too well. If you do not pay attention, ivy can take over borders, smother smaller shrubs or creep into the neighbour’s garden. Fortunately, this is easily handled through pruning as described above. Just keep an eye on the plant and intervene with secateurs or a spade when it becomes too adventurous, and the problem is solved. Ivy that is kept in check a little becomes more of an asset than a worry.
Pests: Ivy is basically a robust plant that is rarely affected by pest infestations, especially outdoors where natural enemies and rain keep much in balance. But sometimes pests can still appear. Two of the more common culprits are spider mites and aphids. Spider mites thrive when the air is dry and warm, which can happen if ivy is very sheltered or if you overwinter it indoors. Signs of spider mites are fine web-like threads under the leaves and that the leaves may get yellowish speckles and look a bit dusty. Aphids may appear as small green or black insects on shoot tips and the underside of leaves; they also excrete sticky liquid (honeydew) that can make the leaves shiny and sticky. Measures: If you discover spider mites or aphids, start by giving the ivy a thorough shower with water. Rinse the leaves (especially the undersides) with a strong stream of water – often that is enough to remove colonies. In more severe infestations, you can try spraying with a mild soap solution (a drop of washing-up liquid or soft soap in a spray bottle of water) on the leaves, which usually kills the pests. Repeat the treatment a few times at intervals of a few days. Also try to increase humidity around the plant if possible, because spider mites hate moisture. Outdoors, nature usually balances this as said – rain washes off some pests and predatory insects eat the rest – so most often you avoid major problems.
Diseases: Diseases rarely affect ivy seriously. Sometimes you may see yellow or brown spots on the leaves, which can be due to leaf spot disease caused by fungi or bacteria. This occurs more often if the plant grows very densely and damp. In that case, thin out the shoots a little to increase air circulation, and remove severely affected leaves. Also be careful not to overwater – constantly waterlogged soil can lead to root rot, which shows as the plant suddenly drooping and developing blackened stem bases. Good drainage and moderate watering prevent this. Overall, ivy is a healthy plant; if it has the right position and care, there is little chance it will become diseased.
Climate issues: As mentioned, strong sun and drought can cause wilted or yellowed foliage. The solution is usually simple: move the plant if possible to a shadier position, or make sure to water more often during hot periods. During severe winter cold, ivy’s leaves can blacken or turn brown from frost damage, especially if there is icy wind. Usually new healthy leaves appear in spring – cut away what is dead and let the plant recover.
Toxicity: Bear in mind that ivy is toxic if ingested. Both the leaves and the berries that older ivy plants can produce contain substances that can cause stomach problems if eaten. The berries, which are blue-black and appear on older plants after autumn flowering, are particularly potent and can cause severe stomach pain, vomiting or diarrhoea if eaten by people or pets. Luckily, they taste bad, so poisonings are uncommon – but small children and curious pets should be kept away from ivy berries. Pets: Cats and dogs usually leave ivy alone, but if you know your pet likes chewing plants, it can be a good idea to place the ivy out of reach. Skin contact: Some people with sensitive skin may get mild irritation or a rash from ivy sap, especially when pruning when the sap is exposed. If you are sensitive, use gloves and long sleeves when handling ivy, just to be safe.
In summary, the most common problems with ivy are easy to avoid with a little foresight and simple care. By giving the plant the right conditions from the start (shady position, moderately moist soil) and by keeping an eye on its growth and any pests, you will probably find that ivy is a trouble-free and rewarding plant.
Garden design tips – ivy in the garden and on the balcony
Ivy is not only easy to care for, it is also a fantastic design plant that can be used in many creative ways in the garden and on the balcony. Here are some inspiring tips on how you can use ivy to create structure, greenery and comfort:
Green walls and privacy screens: Let the ivy climb up a wall, a fence panel or an old tree – you get a lush, green backdrop that gives the garden structure all year round. A dull fence can be transformed into a charming green hedge. Do you have an old rotten tree or stump in the garden? Plant ivy at the base – soon it will climb up and dress the stump in green, which both hides the ugly and creates an exciting feature. For privacy screening on the patio, you can put up a simple reinforcing mesh or a trellis and let the ivy cover it like a green curtain. Remember that if you use ivy against a building wall, make sure the wall can tolerate it (otherwise use a free-standing support a little away from the wall). A dense ivy mat on a pergola or trellis can also function as wind or sun shelter in summer.
Ground cover in awkward corners: Do you have shady areas where grass does not want to grow, or borders where the soil dries out easily? Ivy is an excellent ground cover under shrubs and trees or in north-facing corners of the garden. Plant a few ivy plants and let them creep out – they soon spread into a continuous green mat that suppresses weeds and gives a neat impression. Especially in woodland-like parts of the garden or under large trees, ivy is very useful. It also keeps its leaves in winter, so even in the bare season you have green ground instead of bare soil. Combine ivy with spring bulbs – imagine yellow daffodils or blue scilla popping up through the green mat in spring, a striking colour combination!
Pots, balconies and hanging baskets: Ivy thrives in pots and is therefore perfect for balcony growing or on the patio. For example, you can plant ivy in a hanging basket and let the long shoots hang down decoratively like living green curtains. Or plant it in a balcony box and let it climb along the railing, creating a green wall outward and an extra cosy frame on the balcony. Ivy also looks very good as a companion plant in container arrangements – you can plant it together with flowers such as geraniums, petunias or autumn heather. Ivy’s green shoots soften the edge of the pot and tie the arrangement together. Because it is evergreen, you can even keep the ivy in the pot all year round and swap out seasonal flowers as you go; the ivy becomes that steady base of greenery that is always there.
Trellises and arches: Do you want to create something really atmospheric in the garden? Let ivy climb on a rose arch, pergola or trellis and form a romantic green gateway. Unlike climbing roses or clematis, ivy does not have flowers with strong colour, but the lush green mass gives a fairytale-like, almost secretive impression. A pergola covered in ivy becomes like a green roof that screens from view and sun. You can also experiment with shaping ivy – because it is evergreen, the structures show well. Perhaps a small rusty iron tower or frame that the ivy can cover could become a focal point in the middle of the border?
Year-round decoration and cut greenery: Do not forget that ivy shoots can also be used beyond the growing position itself. You can cut off a couple of nice ivy strands and use them in floral arrangements or table settings. For example, shoots can be looped along the centre of the table as natural decoration for a festive table – green strands of ivy give an immediate feeling of garden and celebration. They also keep well for a long time in a vase or moist floral foam. Ivy symbolises fidelity and eternity, so it is sometimes used in wreaths and bridal bouquets too. For you, that means you have free access to beautiful cut greenery all year round directly from your garden! Just step outside and bring some in whenever you want to decorate at home.
Author: Emma Vogiatzi
Fact-checked by: Erik Hoekstra
Last updated: 2025-12-12