Mulberries (Morus) are an exciting and beautiful fruit tree that produces sweet berries with a flavour somewhere between raspberries and blackberries. Many people think mulberries are only for warmer climates – but with the right variety, site and a bit of patience, it is absolutely possible to grow mulberries in Sweden, especially in sheltered locations. Here you get a complete guide to how to plant mulberries, care for them during the season, and prune for a healthy tree and a good harvest.
Mulberry trees are mainly found as black mulberry (Morus nigra), white mulberry (Morus alba) and hybrids/varieties developed for better hardiness. In Sweden, mulberries are most often grown as a smaller tree or large shrub. It is a long-lived plant that thrives when it can stand warm and sunny – and once it is established it can produce plenty of berries in late summer/early autumn.
Good to know: Mulberries can be slow to get started and sometimes take a few years before they produce proper fruit. But once they get going, they are often both easy to care for and productive.
Mulberries in Sweden – the best position
The key to succeeding with mulberries in a Swedish climate is warmth and shelter.
Sun: Choose a spot in full sun. The more sun, the sweeter the berries and the better the shoots ripen before winter.
Shelter: Plant in a sheltered position, preferably by a south- or wall-facing house facade, wall or dense hedge that stores heat and protects from cold winds.
Microclimate: Mulberries thrive best in milder parts of the country and in urban environments where it is warmer. In colder locations, a really good microclimate is crucial.
Soil and planting
Mulberries like a well-drained, nutrient-rich soil that does not become waterlogged.
Soil
Best: humus-rich, loose soil with good drainage.
Avoid: heavy, wet clay soil and low spots where water collects.
Improve: mix in compost and preferably gravel/sand in heavy soil for better drainage.
When should you plant mulberries?
Spring planting is usually safest in Sweden (April–June), especially in colder areas, so the tree has time to root before winter.
Container-grown mulberries can be planted all season, but avoid periods of extreme heat/drought.
How to plant
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Dig a hole that is at least twice as wide as the root ball.
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Loosen the soil at the bottom and improve with compost (and draining material if needed).
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Set the plant at the same depth as in the pot.
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Water thoroughly and press the soil lightly.
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Feel free to add mulch (grass clippings/bark/compost) around the plant – but not directly against the trunk.
Tip: Mulberries often have more sensitive roots than many fruit trees – handle the root ball carefully when planting.
Care during the season
Watering
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First 1–2 years: water regularly, especially during dry periods.
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Established trees: cope with drought better, but even moisture gives better fruit.
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Avoid constantly wet soil – it is a common reason mulberries do poorly.
Fertilising
Mulberries do not want to be “drowned” in nitrogen. Too much nitrogen gives lots of leaves and soft shoots that freeze easily.
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Fertilise moderately in spring with compost or well-rotted manure.
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If needed: a light dose of berry/fruit fertiliser in April–May.
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Do not fertilise late (after July) – then the shoots do not have time to ripen.
Overwintering in Sweden
Young mulberries can be sensitive to severe cold and spring sun.
Protect the first winter with:
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a thick layer of leaves/compost at the root
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burlap/winter protection around the trunk in exposed positions
Important: shelter and sun give better winter survival than “extra pampering” in the wrong place.
Pruning mulberries – how to do it
Mulberries “bleed” easily if you prune at the wrong time (sap flow), so timing is important.
When should you prune mulberries?
Best: late summer (JAS: July–September) when growth has slowed.
Avoid heavy pruning early in spring (February–March), when the risk of sap bleeding is high.
How do you prune mulberries?
The goal is an airy tree with strong branches and good light penetration.
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Remove dead, damaged and crossing branches first.
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Thin dense parts so light and air can get in (reduces disease pressure and gives better fruit).
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Shape the tree:
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If you want a tree form: keep one main trunk and 3–5 main branches.
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If you want a shrub form: keep several stems and thin older ones over time.
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Prune gently: better a little each year than hard and seldom.
Rejuvenation
Has the mulberry become too large or scruffy?
Rejuvenate gradually over 2–3 seasons: remove a few of the oldest branches each year.
Hard cutting back all at once can stress the tree and produce many water shoots.
Harvest and use
The berries often ripen unevenly and are picked in stages. Ripe mulberries release easily.
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Put a cloth under the tree and shake gently, or pick directly.
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The berries are delicious fresh but also perfect for jam, pie, cordial and freezing.
Tip: Mulberries can stain (the juice is strongly colouring). Do not plant above light paving stones or right next to the patio’s best seat cushions.
Common problems (and quick solutions)
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Frost damage to shoots: better location (more sun/shelter), avoid late fertilising, protect young plants the first winter.
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Poor fruit set: too little sun, too young plant, or too hard nitrogen fertilising.
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Weak growth: standing wetness or soil that is too poor – improve drainage and top-dress with compost.
Author: Emma Vogiatzi – gardener
Fact-checked by: Erik Hoekstra
Last updated 2026-01-15