Chili and Pepper Seeds

What are the steps for successfully growing peppers and chili plants from seeds? The development time for peppers and chili is long, and for successful cultivation, seedlings need to be started early. Seeds are sown as early as possible, preferably around New Year's or at the latest in February. In addition, supplementary lighting is required for the plants to grow at the required rate. The seeds are preferably sown one by one in individual pots or in a so-called plug tray if many plants are to be grown. A high-quality sowing soil, labels, and preferably perlite to cover the seeds with facilitate pre-cultivation. The seeds are sown about 0.5 cm deep and covered with perlite, watered carefully, and placed on underfloor heating at 22-26 degrees. Check the temperature with a thermometer to ensure that it is not too hot, as temperatures above 28-30 degrees inhibit germination. The seed packet indicates the percentage of seeds that will germinate, but a germination rate of 70-80% is common. Leftover seeds can be stored for several years without deteriorating. Depending on the warmth of the seedbed, germination can be expected within 2-3 weeks, and as soon as the plants start to appear above ground, lighting is required for 16-18 hours per day. A high-quality timer ensures the correct time interval. The plants grow quite slowly at first but will need to be transplanted into a larger pot a couple of times before it is time for planting them outdoors. Peppers and chili are demanding when it comes to light, humidity, nutrition, and heat. If any of these factors are not met, it will inevitably affect growth and later harvest. An optimal temperature is always above 20 degrees, preferably more. If placed on a windowsill, the soil may become too cold during the early spring, even if the air in the room is warm enough, so always check with a thermometer. Supplementary lighting is always necessary for early sowing, and it should be on for 16-18 hours per day. Fertilizer is given with every watering regularly a couple of weeks after germination. Dark green leaves indicate that the plant's nutrient status is satisfactory. If the leaves are light green or even slightly yellow, more nutrients must be added. Sometimes you read that the plants need to be topped, this is rarely necessary since as soon as the plants begin to set flower buds, they also naturally begin to branch out! On the contrary, topping delays development and should therefore be avoided. Planting: Peppers and chili cannot tolerate the slightest frost, so planting cannot take place before the risk of frost is over. It usually means after the frost in early June, but if you have access to a greenhouse or similar, planting can, of course, be done earlier. Peppers and chili can be grown in all types of pots and containers, but they should be able to hold at least 10 liters of soil for one plant. However, in practice, it is always difficult to achieve the best results in a pot, and therefore planting in the ground is always preferred. The soil should always be rich, moisture-retaining, and have the ability to retain nutrients. When growing in a pot, always choose a high-quality soil, and so-called "planting soils" should be avoided. When growing in the ground, the soil is preferably improved with well-rotted manure and compost before planting. It is also very positive to fertilize with a handful of chicken manure per square meter a week before planting. The soil can then also be covered with grass clippings containing a lot of nitrogen. Paprika and chili can be eaten at all stages of development. As a rule, the green fruit is milder with an underdeveloped aroma. The more mature a fruit becomes, the more sweetness and heat, in the case of chili, can develop. It is also true that the time it takes for a green, immature fruit to mature and turn colored is quite long. By harvesting the fruits early while they are still green and immature, the total harvest yield can therefore be greater. However, some varieties are not particularly good when unripe, so it is important to taste-test. Crop rotation: In container gardening, crop rotation diseases are rarely a problem, as each growing season starts with new soil, either purchased or homemade of good quality. However, when growing in a raised bed, it is important to replace the soil or greatly improve it before each growing season to avoid problems with soil-borne crop rotation diseases. There are many pests that like paprika and chili, and the primary measures are to regularly check the plants carefully every week. Often, the pests are found on the underside of the leaves, and by using yellow sticky traps and examining the catches closely, an infestation can be detected and countermeasures can be taken early. Aphids often attack young plants, and their presence is more the rule than the exception when growing paprika and chili. Aphids reproduce quickly, and all infestations must be stopped in time before they become unmanageable. Use plant care products, soap or similar. It is also usually effective to crush the insects between fingertips or wash the affected parts of the plant with cold water. Whiteflies are also an insect that often appears in cultivation. They thrive especially in enclosed, dry and warm spaces, such as a warm sunny windowsill or a greenhouse. The insect has several stages, but it is the adult, flying insects that cause the most damage by sucking sap from the young parts of the plant. Use plant care products or soap to combat the infestation. A very good way to control whiteflies is also the yellow sticky traps that are available on the market. These are completely non-toxic, and the flying insects are attracted to the yellow color and once stuck, they cannot get loose. The traps work well against all flying pests such as fungus gnats and thrips. Thrips suck the sap from the young plant parts, which, as they grow out, exhibit pronounced deformations. Serious infestations can seriously impair the plant's growth and yield, and thrips infestations should always be combated early. Use plant care products, soap, and yellow sticky traps. If you find strange bulges or holes in the new small leaves, check the back of the leaves in the hunt for pests.