Elder (Sambucus nigra) is a beloved elder shrub in Swedish gardens. It offers delightfully fragrant flowers in early summer and dark berries in late summer. Many people recognise the scent of homemade elderflower cordial – a true summer classic! Growing elder is both fun and rewarding. This guide from Florea’s growing school explains how to grow elder in Sweden, from planting to care, as well as tips for harvesting and use.
Introduction to elder – what is elder and why grow it?
Elder is a large shrub or small tree that can grow 3–5 metres tall. It has lush greenery and blooms in June–July with flat clusters of creamy white flowers that spread a sweet, summery fragrance. In autumn, the clusters develop into small black elderberries. Elder has long been popular to grow thanks to its many uses. From the flowers you can make elderflower cordial or tea, and the berries can be cooked into cordial, jam, jelly or liqueur. In addition, the shrub is decorative – it adorns its place both as a specimen plant and in shrubbery, and there are beautiful varieties with, for example, golden yellow or dark purple leaves.
Growing elder suits both beginners and experienced hobby growers. Elder is easy to care for and fast-growing, and thrives in our Swedish climate. It withstands plant hardiness zones 1–4 (some varieties up to zone 5), which covers large parts of Sweden. In other words, most people can grow elder in their garden and enjoy their own elderflower cordial in summer!
Planting elder – choice of site, soil and planting
Site: Choose a sunny to semi-shaded spot in the garden for your elder. In full sun the elder blooms abundantly, but it also copes well with dappled shade and partial shade. Keep in mind that the elder shrub becomes large and spreading – plant it preferably by the property boundary or in a corner where it has room to spread out (at least 2–3 metres distance to other trees/shrubs). A sheltered site is good, as strong winds can damage young shoots.
Soil: Elder thrives in nutrient-rich, humus-rich and well-drained soil. You get the best results in a slightly moisture-retentive, slightly acidic soil (pH around 6–7) with plenty of organic matter. Improve the soil before planting by mixing in compost or planting soil with the existing garden soil. However, elder is adaptable and can grow in most soil types – just avoid overly dry and poor soil, as it can give poorer growth and more problems with pests.
Planting: The best time to plant an elder is in spring or autumn, when the ground is moist. Dig a spacious hole (at least twice as wide and deep as the root ball). Place the root ball so that the plant ends up at the same depth as it stood in the pot. Fill back in with the mixed soil around the roots. Firm the soil gently to remove air pockets. Water thoroughly after planting so that the soil settles around the roots. It does no harm to mix a little natural fertiliser or cow manure into the soil at planting to give a nutrient kick-start. If you plant several elder plants, give them about 2 metres spacing so that each elder shrub has room to develop.
Care of elder – watering, fertilising and pruning
An established elder is generally easy to care for, but with a little attention it thrives even better. Here are tips on care regarding watering, fertilising and pruning:
Watering: Elder wants an even supply of water, especially during the first years and during dry summers. Keep the soil slightly moist, but avoid standing wet soil around the roots (a well-drained substrate is important so that the roots do not rot). If the elder stands too dry it becomes stressed and can be affected by aphids, so water as needed during prolonged drought. A layer of organic mulch around the base (e.g. grass clippings or bark humus) helps the soil retain moisture and an even temperature.
Fertilising: The elder shrub appreciates nutrients but is not particularly demanding. Work in a little fertiliser in spring to give the shrub a good start for the season – for example compost, well-rotted farmyard manure or an all-purpose garden fertiliser. During summer you can give a small dose of berry fertiliser or nettle water to support flowering and berry set. Avoid overdoing nitrogen fertilisation; too much nitrogen can give lots of leaves but fewer flowers. In autumn no fertilising is needed, but you can dig in a little compost around the shrub so there will be nutrients for spring.
Pruning: Elder grows quickly and can become quite sprawling. Regular pruning helps the shrub keep a nice shape and stimulates new fresh growth. Young plants can be topped or lightly trimmed to encourage branching and become dense. Older elder shrubs should be thinned every few years: remove 1–2 of the oldest, thick branches down at ground level in early spring. This rejuvenates the shrub and lets in more light and air, which gives more abundant flowering. Elder also tolerates harder pruning if needed – you can actually saw the whole shrub down almost to ground level if it has become scruffy; it sends up new shoots from the base (do this in late winter/early spring for best results).
The best time for pruning is late winter or early spring, before bud burst. Alternatively, you can prune during the JAS period (July, August, September) after flowering. Avoid pruning right in spring when the sap is rising the most. Use sharp secateurs or a saw and make clean cuts. Remove dead, diseased or crossing branches that grow inward. If you want the elder more like a tree you can raise the canopy: select a few main stems and remove lower branches so that a small tree form is created. Keep in mind that an unpruned elder over the years can become bare at the bottom, so annual light pruning gives a nicer, denser shrub.
Common problems and pests on elder – and how to avoid them
Elder is a robust plant that is rarely affected by serious diseases. But just as with other garden plants there are a few common problems to watch out for:
Aphids: Black aphids sometimes thrive on elder, especially if the plant stands too dry or is stressed. You often notice them on new shoots and buds. Prevent by keeping the shrub suitably moist and healthy. If aphids appear, rinse the branches with a strong jet of water or spray with a soap solution. Beneficial insects such as ladybirds also gladly eat the aphids for you. In severe infestations you can, in the worst case, use a biological plant protection product, but chemical pesticides are rarely needed.
Fungal diseases: In damp situations elder can get leaf spot disease or mould (e.g. powdery mildew) on the leaves. Affected leaves get discoloured spots or a whitish coating and can wilt prematurely. Solution: pick off affected leaves immediately and dispose of them (do not leave them under the shrub). Also make sure that the shrub has good airflow – thinning branches helps against fungal diseases through better air circulation. In general, however, elder is quite resistant to disease.
Beetles and larvae: Sometimes a pest called the elder borer is mentioned – a beetle whose larvae can bore into wood and branches. Attacks of this are uncommon in ordinary gardens, but if you were to see holes in the branches and wilting shoots without another explanation it may be the cause. Then cut off affected branches and burn or dispose of them, thereby breaking the insect’s life cycle.
Birds and animals: The garden’s birds love elderberries! It is lovely to support birdlife, but if you want to take part of the berry harvest yourself you may need to cover the shrub with netting when the berries begin to ripen, or be quick to pick the clusters before the birds feast on them. Deer can sometimes nibble young shoots of elder, so if you have a lot of deer in the area it may be worth protecting newly planted shrubs with netting or scent repellents.
Confusion with red elder: A final “problem” to mention is the risk of mixing up true elder with red elder (Sambucus racemosa), a close relative. Red elder is another shrub that has red berries and blooms earlier in spring with yellowish, upright flower clusters. It is poisonous and the berries cannot be used as elderberries. Do not confuse these two! True elder can be recognised by the flowers smelling strongly of elder and sitting in flat clusters, and by the berries turning black when ripe. If you buy an elder plant commercially it is almost always Sambucus nigra (true elder) you get, but it can be good to know the difference if you take a plant from the wild.
Author: Emma Vogiatzi - trained gardener
Fact-checked by: Erik Hoekstra
Last updated 2026-01-15