Aloe vera


How to grow aloe vera indoors

Is there a plant that combines usefulness and ornament as well as Aloe vera? This hardy succulent is not only easy to care for – it also decorates the home with its thick, green leaves filled with healing gel. Growing aloe vera in Sweden is easier than you think, whether you are a beginner or an experienced grower. With the right care it handles our Nordic indoor climate brilliantly, and during summer it can even enjoy the sun outdoors. Here we guide you step by step through planting, watering, light needs, fertilising, repotting, propagation and how to avoid common problems – all so that your aloe vera will thrive and flourish all year round.

Where does aloe vera thrive best?

Placement: Your aloe vera wants to stand as bright as possible. A sunny window facing south or west is ideal. Even though the plant tolerates direct sun, the strongest midday sun through the window can become too intense – especially if the plant is not used to it. Start preferably with mild morning or evening sun and gradually increase exposure. If the leaves begin to yellow or get brown spots, it can be a sign of sunburn, then it is wise to move the plant to a place with filtered light. Also avoid letting it stand in too shady corners; with long-term lack of light the leaves become thin and sparse and the aloe vera gets a leggy growth habit. If you have a dark home during winter, a grow light can be helpful to give extra light.

Temperature & outdoors: Aloe vera thrives in normal room temperature (about 18–25°C). It can temporarily cope down to 5°C if the soil is dry, but does best if kept above 10–15°C. During the summer months you can put your aloe vera out on the balcony or patio to give it a boost of natural light. Wait until the risk of frost is over (late spring) before you move the plant outdoors, and let it get used gradually to stronger sunlight outside (start in partial shade for a few days). Choose a sunny but sheltered place where it does not risk blowing over. Remember to protect it from persistent rain – if the soil becomes soaked for a long time the roots can rot. Bring the aloe vera back indoors again towards autumn before the nights become too cool (below about 10°C).

How to plant aloe vera (step-by-step)

Have you got a young aloe vera plant or maybe raised a shoot? This is how you plant it in a pot:

Choose the right pot: Use a pot with drainage holes in the bottom, so excess water can run out. Preferably a slightly heavier terracotta pot – it breathes and reduces the risk of a top-heavy aloe tipping over. Put a layer (etwa 2–3 cm) of clay pebbles or coarse gravel in the bottom for extra drainage.

Soil mix: Fill the pot with a well-drained soil. Preferably use cactus or succulent soil that is sandy and loose. Alternatively, you can mix ordinary potting soil with coarse sand or perlite (about 1/3 mixing material) to mimic aloe vera’s natural, nutrient-poor desert environment.

Plant the aloe vera: Place the plant in the middle of the pot. If the roots are many and tightly packed, loosen them carefully with your fingers. Then fill soil around the root ball until the soil reaches the base of the leaves (where the lowest leaves begin). Press the soil lightly with your fingers so the plant stands steady, but avoid burying any leaves in the soil (they can then rot).

After planting – wait with water: Newly planted aloe vera does best with a bit of patience. Do not water directly after planting. Let the plant stand in its dry soil for about 1–2 weeks so any damage to the roots can heal and new roots can begin to seek outwards. During this time the aloe vera gets all the moisture it needs from its fleshy leaves.

After this establishment period you can begin to water carefully according to the advice below. Put your planted aloe in bright light and warmth and you will soon be rewarded with new growth!

How do you water aloe vera?

Basic rule: Better too dry than too wet. Aloe vera is adapted for desert climate and stores water in its leaves. That means it copes with drought much better than overwatering.

Watering frequency: Always feel the soil before you water. The soil should be completely dry all the way through before it is time again. During spring and summer this usually means watering about every 2–3 weeks, depending on how warm and sunny it stands. In winter the aloe vera enters a rest period with slower growth; then it can be enough to water as rarely as once a month, or even more rarely if the soil remains dry.

How to water: When it is time, water thoroughly. Give a deep watering until you see that a little water runs out through the drainage hole in the pot – this ensures that even the deeper roots get water. Important: Pour away excess water that has collected in an outer pot or saucer after a while, so the roots do not stand in water. Then let the soil dry out completely before the next round.

Avoid wetness in the leaf rosette: Pour the water on the soil, not directly up into the aloe vera’s leaf rosette. Water that remains standing among the leaves can cause rot or spots.

Signs to watch for: Limp, yellowed or brownish leaves can indicate that you have watered too often. If the leaves instead become thinner and a bit wrinkled, it can be a sign that the plant is thirsty – then it is time for a careful watering.

Does aloe vera need fertiliser?

Aloe vera is not a big eater when it comes to nutrients. In its natural environment it grows in poor, sandy ground. Therefore it does excellently without fertiliser or with minimal nutrient supply. If you still want to give your aloe a little lift during the growing season, you can do this:

Fertilising period: Give nutrients only during the active growing period from spring to late summer. During autumn and winter the aloe vera needs no fertiliser at all, because it is resting.

Dosage: Use a weak dose of liquid plant food, preferably one intended for cacti and succulents. About once a month is enough. Dilute the fertiliser to half strength compared with what is stated on the bottle – aloe vera is sensitive to excess nutrients.

Do not overdo it: Fertilising more often or with too strong a dose can do more harm than good. Too much nutrition can lead to damage to the aloe vera’s roots or leaves and that the plant grows unnaturally fast (and becomes weaker). When it comes to aloe, “less is more” – it does fine with sparing food.

When and how should you repot aloe vera?

One of the reasons aloe vera is so easy to care for is that it does not need repotting often. The plant likes to be a bit cramped at the roots and can live in the same pot for quite a long time. But eventually the soil can become depleted of nutrients or the plant can outgrow its pot. Here are some guidelines:

Repotting interval: Plan to repot your aloe vera about every second to third year. It is best to do it in spring, when light and warmth return and the plant is ready to start growing actively again.

Signs it is time: If you see roots creeping out through the drainage holes, or if the aloe vera has become so large at the top that it risks tipping over, it is time for a bigger pot. Also if the soil feels very compact and exhausted it can be wise to change the soil.

Choose the right pot size: Take a new pot that is just a step bigger than the old one – avoid giving the aloe vera a huge pot straight away, because then the soil stays moist too long. Make sure the new pot also has good drainage in the bottom.

How to repot: Lift the plant carefully out of its old pot (use gloves if the leaves are spiky along the edge). Brush off as much of the old soil from the roots as possible, without damaging the roots. Repot in fresh, well-drained soil in the same way as described above (drainage layer, sand-mixed soil, etc.). Place the plant at the same depth as before.

Handle “babies”: If your aloe vera has developed side shoots (small baby plants) around the base, take the opportunity to separate them at repotting. Each little shoot that has got its own roots can be carefully broken off from the mother plant and planted in its own small pot. (More about propagation below!)

After repotting: Give the repotted aloe vera a few days to a week without water so any damage to the roots can heal. Put it in the light as usual. After that you can return to careful watering.

How do you propagate aloe vera?

A fun and easy way to get more aloe plants is to propagate them. Aloe vera often forms side shoots on its own when it thrives – suddenly small miniature rosettes pop up next to the mother plant. This is how you can do it:

Let the shoots grow: Wait until the small shoots (sometimes called “pups” or aloe babies) are at least 4–5 cm tall and have some leaves of their own. Then they have usually developed their own roots and cope with moving better.

Lift the plant: Carefully lift the whole mother plant out of the pot, including the soil ball, to reach the shoots. Hold the base of the plant and loosen carefully.

Gently separate the shoots: Carefully separate the side shoots from the mother plant. Sometimes they are attached by a root strand; use your fingers or a clean sharp knife/scissors to cut them free if needed. Make sure each shoot you remove gets some roots with it.

Plant the shoots: Fill small pots (with holes in the bottom) with lightly moistened, well-drained soil (the same type you use for your adult aloe). Plant each little shoot in its pot, so the roots are covered and the plant stands steady.

Aftercare: Place the newly planted shoots bright but not in direct strong sun at first. Wait to water them properly; give only minimal moisture if the soil is completely bone dry. After a few weeks, when you notice they start to get going and new leaves appear, you can water them a bit more like a regular aloe. Be patient – root development can take time, but soon you will have several new aloe veras to enjoy!

Tip: You can also propagate aloe vera with leaf cuttings, although it takes longer. Cut off a strong leaf at the base, let the cut surface dry for a couple of days, and then stick the leaf a few centimetres into seed compost/sand-mixed soil. Keep lightly moist and wait – with a bit of luck the leaf begins to develop roots and new shoots after a few months.

Common problems and how to avoid them

Even though aloe vera is a robust plant it can run into some common issues. Here are the typical problems and tips to prevent them:

Overwatering & root rot: The biggest threat to aloe vera is too much water. Signs of overwatering include yellowing, brown or limp leaves that can become soft and mushy in texture, sometimes with a stale smell from the soil (the roots rot). To save an overwatered plant, stop watering immediately, take the plant out of the wet soil and let the roots dry. Cut away any mouldy or dissolved root parts. Repot in dry, fresh soil with good drainage. Prevent: Water sparingly and always let the soil dry out completely before the next watering.

Lack of light: If the aloe vera stands too dark it gets long, thin and pale leaves that stretch towards the light (a phenomenon called etiolation). Growth becomes weak and the plant looks leggy. Measure: Move it to a brighter place, preferably a sunny window. In winter a grow light can help. Give as much light as possible to get compact, strong growth.

Sun damage: Conversely, too strong sun (especially sudden exposure of an unaccustomed plant) can cause the leaves to get brown spots or take on a reddish tone – a sign of sun scorch. Measure: Move the plant to partial shade so it can recover. Next time, acclimatise the aloe gradually to direct sun, e.g. a few hours a day, to avoid burning the leaves.

Pests: Aloe vera is rarely affected by pests, but sometimes mealybugs (small white cotton-like insects), spider mites (web-thin threads on leaf undersides) or aphids can appear – especially if the plant has been outdoors. Measure: Isolate affected plants from other houseplants. Remove pests manually by wiping the leaves with a cloth moistened in soapy water or an alcohol solution (denatured alcohol diluted). With spider mites, a shower of the whole plant and increased humidity can help. Repeat the treatment until the pests are gone.

Author: Emma Vogiatzi – gardener

Fact-checked by: Erik Hoekstra

Last updated 2026-01-15